Ubud – Rice Paddies & Hidden Warungs

I am so sorry I’ve not written in the last few days… I can’t tell you how crazy it’s been but obviously I’m going to try because that is the primary purpose of this blog. I am not going to try and squeeze it all in to 1 entry though so you will be a little bit behind for a while.

After our wonderful evening in Petulu we had decided what we would be doing the next day, it was time to hunt out a ‘hidden’ warung nestled among the rice paddies Ubud is famous for. We had a lazy morning, enjoyed our breakfast and the lush greenery surrounding us, showered and started our 30 minute trek to Warung Bodag Maliah.

First thing to note, we were walking for longer than 30 minutes, much longer. This is not only because we took a wrong turn, but we were accosted by a lovely but very pushy Balinese lady who invited us in to her family’s temple to take photographs and get changed into the appropriate dress. She picked out sarongs and waist ties for us and wrapped us in them properly (we had just been hacking them together however we could at the time, so it was nice to experience how they should fit and look), Bryan even got a headscarf of sorts.

After looking around her place of worship and clicking away on the camera, we then had a 10 minute game of charades whilst we tried to figure out what she was saying (she did not speak a word of English and we clearly know very little Balinese). She asked us our ages and thought our age gap was highly amusing! But her main focus seemed to be my fertility. She was telling us / drawing in dust on the bricks which fruits and vegetables are good for a healthy womb. It was a bizarre experience but also quite a valuable one… we were fleeced once again because she did of course expect a payment for her kindness.

When we finally broke away from our new fertility nurse we carried on our long and tiresome walk through the centre of Ubud. I made us stop for an ice cream because we had damn well earned it! I had cookies and choc chip with pistachio and cheesecake, David had coconut, green mint tea choc chip and honeycomb. Yum. Just yum.

We continued to wander along, hoping for a sign of the rice paddies. In the end we did find a little cut way that led you through to a narrow track lined with coconut trees. There were cute boutique places and a number of artist shacks (art is BIG in Ubud), along with the odd warung and meditation garden.

Finding Warung Bodag Mahliah was a dream, we were almost sure it was an oasis. It was so so hot and we were so so parched! Because the lady at the temple fleeced us we had limited funds, so spent the meal adding up and doing sums to make sure we had enough Rupiah to cover the meal. In the end we fell short but they let us off. We were not at all disappointed by the view or the food, it was all lovely.

After lunch we continued our way through the rice paddies and I was totally blown away by the beauty that I saw within them. I kept saying ‘look where we are’, because even after just over a week in this place, it still shocks me.

Sweat. There was a lot of sweat when we got back to our room so quick showers were in order before making our way out to Ubud Palace and for some tea. This was the day that we FaceTimed with Harvey.

Ubud Palace is pretty, but a lot of it was closed off for renovation so we didn’t get to see too much. Bryan reckons the royal family still live there which would explain why so little is open to the public. Turns out we walked right by it on the way to Bodag Mahliah.

Cafe Lotus had our custom for dinner. It was lovely food, but very over priced with a bit of a hoity toity air to it all. We felt a bit out of place there so enjoyed our food and left. We spent a lot of time talking about how our relationship started which was sweet. I always love reflecting on our immediate soul recognition that started this journey.

I Ketut came out to meet us as we arrived back from dinner; he had confirmed he’d be making us some breakfast boxes for the following morning as we said we needed to leave early. He then told us that he’s a driver but also the village priest, and that he was proud Bali has kept such a strong Hindu tradition. Bryan boasted about my cooking skills and we explained what we both do for a living before popping off to bed.

Our breakfast boxes were great. We had toast, jam, butter, sausage and a boiled egg each. OH! And a juice box! We munched on this as we made our way to Kubu. The drive was blissful with no traffic and insane views of Mount Agung, the active volcano on the island. We stopped to get photos where we could on the way to Kubu/Amed Beach for snorkelling.

Annnnnndddd, you will hear all about that in the next instalment as it’s way past my bedtime!

Lots of love,

Courtney xo

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